Collections Online

Bedgown worn by Mary Jane Phillips of Pontlotyn when a member of Dame Clara Novello Davies' Royal Welsh Ladies Choir. She was the choir's contralto soloist.

Bedgown, made from tabby woven wool fabric: thin lines of red check on black ground (red = stripes of either 2 or 3 thin lines, each consisting of 2 picks). 4.5cm wide red ribbon bows at both short-sleeved cuffs (consisting of 2 large loops and 2 smaller loops on top). Red ribbon trim (ruffle) around neck, tied into bow at centre front. Below this point, the gown is fastened with 7 black-painted steel hooks and stitched loops. Two black-painted steel hoops are stitched to centre front opening (12.5cm above hem) - these appear to correspond with a black-painted steel hook which is stitched to the upper centre back (i.e. the front corners of the gown seem to be intended to be folded back-/out-wards, c.f. bedgown 30.295.1). Bodice section is lined with tabby-woven cotton fabric (brown yarns in vertical direction, white yarns in horizontal direction). Some of the raw edges are pinked. Neck has additional lining of brown twill-woven cellulosic strip (width = c.3cm). Darts in upper bodice: 2 on each side of front and 2 under arm. Centre back seam. All darts as well as seam have been altered (made wider), with remains of original threads still visible on either side of current seams. All seams are machine stitched. Ribbon trimming and hooks are hand stitched. A full-width section of fabric (selvage to selvage = 66cm) has been inserted at centre back of skirt and gathered into centre back of waist. 2.5cm turn-back at lower hem, at centre front of skirt, fabric turn-back faces outwards (also supporting the idea that the corners are folded back onto themselves).

Selvages of red ribbon have two thick warps - each of these consist of 5 cotton threads which are used as one warp. This results in two vertical ribs down the side edges of the ribbon. 5 gathered tucks at shoulder; on proper right shoulder, the tucks point forwards, while on the left shoulder, the tucks face backwards.

Remains of black stitching thread along lower hem and at 24cm above hem (as well as the lower 24cm of the centre front opening). However, the purpose of the stitches is not clear. The stitches have been cut in such a way to suggest that whatever has been secured by these stitches was attached to the front of the garment, rather than the back.