: Excavation & Discovery

When the Vikings invaded North Wales

2 April 2007

Historical records tell us of a series of terrifying attacks by Viking invaders on the coasts of Britain, France and Ireland in the last decade of the 8th century. Archaeological evidence show that these invaders may not have been as brutal as records claim.

The first recorded raid on Wales occurred in 852, and we know of attacks by

Vikings on Anglesey and Gwynedd from 854 onwards. Rhodri Mawr, ruler of Gwynedd (844-78), led resistance to these early onslaughts, killing the Danish leader Gorm in 855.

In 903 Vikings came to Anglesey after being driven out of Dublin. According to both Irish and Welsh records they failed to gain a foothold in Wales, and sailed on to Chester. Again in 918, Anglesey was ravaged by Vikings.

Frequent attacks occurred on the island during the second half of the 10th century on the island; Olaf of Dublin built a castle known as 'Olaf's Castle' or 'Castell Bon y Dom' about the year 1000.

This one-sided historical record of Vikings terrorising the land has now been transformed by archaeology. Viking contact was certainly hostile and brutal at times, but often opportunist. In some areas, they rapidly settled as peaceful farmers, and archaeology has provided evidence for them as colonisers, merchants, and skilled craftsmen.

The nature of Viking settlement in Wales remains one of the mysteries of early medieval archaeology, none more so than on Anglesey. This is emphasised when the Viking measurement of 'a day's sail' is plotted from the Isle of Man, Dublin, Chester and the Wirral, for they all intersect in Anglesey waters.

10th-century fragments of silver ingots and arm-rings

10th-century fragments of silver ingots and arm-rings

The Vikings name Anglesey

Physical evidence of the Vikings in Wales is even less definite. Certainly, we know that the Vikings were familiar with Anglesey because of the place-names of Scandinavian origin which have been given to prominent coastal features as navigational aids: Onguls-ey itself, traditionally thought to incorporate a personal name - presumably a Viking leader, The Skerries, Piscar, Priestholm (prestaholmr) and Osmond's Air near Beaumaris, from Asmundr & eyrr, a gravel bank near the sea.

Uncovering evidence of Vikings in Wales

For a more realistic picture of Viking Wales, we have to turn to archaeology. Most Viking silver found in Wales has been discovered in coastal areas. St Deiniol's monastery in Bangor has produced two hoards, one dated to around 925, and a small group of coins deposited about 970. The

Bryn Maelgwyn hoard of coins near Llandudno was deposited in the mid-1020s, and may be Viking booty rather than local savings; and a remarkable hoard of five complete Viking silver arm rings of were found in the 19th century at Red Wharf Bay, Anglesey.

The Viking Age settlement at Llanbedrgoch

One of the most intriguing archaeological sites belonging to the Viking period is to be found at

Llanbedrgoch , Anglesey and research by Amgueddfa Cymru has helped reveal the nature of Viking Age life which has puzzled scholars for decades.

Fine fresco wall painting removed for conservation

30 March 2007

Watercolour by F.G. Newton, 1905

Watercolour by F.G. Newton, 1905

Removing one of the panels

Removing one of the panels

In 1988, archaeological excavations of the council chamber in the basilica (assembly hall) of the Roman town at Caerwent revealed a fine wall painting that has since been removed for conservation and display.

The painted plaster or fresco, 5m long and 1m high, was still attached to the south wall of the chamber. It had been previously recorded in watercolour by F. G. Newton in 1905, and had been covered over again.

The fresco shows an architectural perspective, with yellow pillars above a brown veined pink dado. A dark brown area in the central pillar may be part of a decorated panel, possibly containing the torso of a man.

It was decided to remove the fresco to prevent further deterioration as the plaster was extremely fragile.

After carefully covering the delicate artwork with muslin and glue, the painting was cut into five panels. Each enclosed in specially-designed boxes.

A variety of saws and chisels were used to separate the painted plaster from the wall. Since access to the back of each panel was restricted to its top edge and one side, this process was difficult, needing extreme patience and ingenuity.

It took a total of nine days to remove the painting, with the subsequent conservation and rebacking taking several years, the fresco is now conserved and stored at the National Museum, Cardiff.

Background Reading:

Caerwent Roman Town by R.J. Brewer. Published by Cadw (2006).

The Grand Forum-basilica at Caerwent

30 March 2007

Caerwent: the south wall and towers

Caerwent: the south wall and towers

The small village of Caerwent, near Chepstow in south Wales, was once the administrative capital of the Silures, the Celtic tribe occupying south-east Wales. Only two Roman towns are known to have existed in Wales: Carmarthen (Maridunum) and Caerwent (Venta Silurum).

Between 1984 and 1995 Amgueddfa Cymru - National Museum Wales undertook a programme of research excavations to improve knowledge of the early development of Caerwent. Earlier excavations had only revealed the tops of the buildings, therefore only providing a view of the late Roman town.

The Forum-basilica

Like every Roman town, at the centre was the forum (market-place) and adjoining basilica (assembly hall).Even before excavation some of the walls stood as much as 2m above ground-level, having been incorporated into 19th century farm-buildings. The forum-basilica was first explored in 1907 and 1909. Almost the whole plan of the building was recovered, but there was no firm indication as to when it was first erected. The more recent excavations uncovered parts of this impressive building for display and unravelled its structural history.

The forum, a rectangular open market-place surrounded on three sides by rooms, was entered from the main street through an archway. A paved piazza provided space for temporary stalls to be set-up on market days. The ranges of rooms, which were set behind a covered colonnade, served as shops, taverns and offices. Above these, there would probably have been a second storey, perhaps with a terrace and more rooms.

The basilica comprises a great hall and a rear range of rooms. The great hall would have been used for large public meetings and ceremonies.

Excavations of the east end of the great hall of the basilica, with the drain in the foreground

Excavations of the east end of the great hall of the basilica, with the drain in the foreground

As is generally the case, the great hall consisted of a nave and two aisles divided by colonnades supporting a clerestory, like that of a great church. The walls carrying the columns had foundations almost 2m deep. The great stone columns, all carved from local sandstone, reached a height of 9m. It has been calculated that the basilica must have been over 20m high.

In the centre of the rear range of rooms was the aedes, or shrine, where statues of the Emperor and civic deities would have stood. The floor was raised above those of the rest of the basilica, giving it some prominence.

The room to the west of the aedes served as the curia or council chamber. Its south wall survives to a height of some 2m and carries painted plaster with an architectural design. In its later history, mosaic panels adorned the floor of this room. On either side of the mosaics were channels, with corresponding grooves in the plaster on the south wall. These carried the timber framework of the benches on which the councillors of the tribal assembly would have sat. Stone bases of a stepped wooden dais occupied the east end of the room from which the local magistrates would have presided over meetings of the council.

Beneath the floor of the basilica, was a box-drain which carried rainwater collected in the gutters surrounding the forum piazza. Massive blocks of local sandstone, some weighing more than a ton, were used for the sides and capping of the drain, while the base was paved in roofing tiles. A semi-circular inspection hole, cut in one of the capstones, gave access to the drain to clean it out.

Reconstruction of the forum-basilica.

Reconstruction of the forum-basilica. (Cadw, Crown Copyright)

This great building was erected in the earlier part of the 2nd century A.D. The work must have placed a severe strain on resources and finance as the forum-basilica were among the largest buildings constructed in Britain before the great cathedrals of the Middle Ages.

In the late 3rd century, the basilica appears largely to have been rebuilt. The roof of the great hall was stripped and the columns dismantled. As part of this reconstruction, the walls were strengthened and the floors were raised, probably as a result of subsidence. Structural problems may have existed from the outset, for two very large pits had been dug through the earliest floors to inspect the foundations.

Buckle and plate of a late fourth century belt found on the site of the basilica. The buckle is adorned with confronting dolphins and outward facing horses heads.

Buckle and plate of a late fourth century belt found on the site of the basilica. The buckle is adorned with confronting dolphins and outward facing horses heads.

The basilica continued to function as the administrative centre until the 330s, but at that time the nature of the occupation changed. Numerous hearths were found in the nave, indicating that the great hall was being used for small-scale industrial activity. Some twenty or thirty years later the basilica was demolished, however coins struck in the 390s show continued activity on the site. The nature of this late occupation, when the rest of the town was slipping into decay and ruin, is uncertain.

The excavations at Caerwent have unravelled much of the history of this massive building, and the features described have been observed nowhere else in Britain.

Background reading

Caerwent Roman Town by R.J. Brewer. Published by Cadw (2006)

Lost photographs uncover unique snapshot of rural Wales

22 March 2007

An unique collection of photographs from the turn of last century, rescued from decay and neglect, give an rare insight into life in rural Cardiganshire.

Tom Mathias (1866–1940)

Tom Mathias (1866–1940)

Luck often plays a big part in uncovering many important museum acquisitions, and this was certainly the case in the discovery of a fine collection of historic photographs, discovered in 1990 and obtained by Amgueddfa Cymru.

Only good luck could explain the fact that Maxi Davis, an experienced professional photographer, was told of the existence of boxes of very old glass negatives. What else but luck could explain the fact that those same negatives should have survived decades of neglect stored in kitchen cupboards and out-houses.

Aberdyfan, the house in question, was being cleared following the death of the owner, Mr James Mathias. The photographs had been taken by his father Tom Mathias during the turn of the last century.

Outstanding collection of photographs

Maxi Davis's passion for historical photography prompted him to salvage the negatives and to print those still in useable condition. What they revealed was an outstanding collection of photographs taken around Cilgeran and the Teifi Valley in west Wales at the turn of the century.

Thomas Mathias (1866–1940)

Tom Mathias was a self-taught photographer. He captured the daily life of his community with a keenness of eye and technical clarity rarely shown by better-known photographers using far more sophisticated equipment. He was born in Cilgerran in 1866, the son of a master mariner. Little is known of his early life, or what started his interest in photography. In 1897 he married Louise Paquier, a Swiss governess with a local gentry family, the Gowers of Castell Malgwyn.

The couple settled in Aberdyfan and Tom Mathias combined running the smallholding with his career as a photographer. They had two children, James, born in 1902, and Tilla, born in 1898.

Despite his lack of formal training, in 1897 he was confident enough to describe his occupation as 'photographer' on his marriage certificate. He is also listed as a photographer in local trade directories between 1901 and 1920. What happened in 1920 is unclear, but few of the surviving photographs appear to have been taken after that date.

Capturing Rural Life

Cilgerran coracle-men

Cilgerran coracle-men William Johnson and John Morgan with their haul of fish, 1905.

Like most rural photographers, Mathias made his livelihood recording important family occasions and over half the images in the collection feature weddings, christenings and family groups, demonstrating an originality of approach which frequently cuts through the formality of the poses to capture the humanity and personality of the subjects. According to those who knew him, Tom Mathias had infinite patience in setting up his shots and nowhere is this patience better rewarded than in his splendidly informal photographs of children.

Tom Mathias took many photographs of the general daily life in and around Cilgerran, documenting an unequalled record of the social and economic life of his community. Not only did he take an interest in special events such as the return of the local regiment from the Boer War, Sunday school outings and village celebrations, but his camera also recorded the mundane and ordinary aspects of life.

Working life

Unusually for a collection of historic photographs, the material is fully documented. As well as saving the negatives Maxi Davis and his wife Peggy staged a series of exhibitions of the photographs in Cilgerran and the neighbouring villages, managing to establish the location and date of almost every photograph, as well as the identity of virtually every individual who appears in them!

This remarkable collection was nearly lost forever had it not been for the set of circumstances that saw these photographs rescued from neglect and decay to become an important museum collection preserved for future generations.

Cilgerran High Street, taken in 1905.

Cilgerran High Street, taken in 1905.